Ever heard of the lost wax technique? The lost wax casting technique was invented to create the finest level of detail in sculpting. It is a method of metal casting, in which hot metal is poured into a wax model, which is ‘lost’ during the process. Taking its name from the French term “cire perdue,” this technique originated more than 5,000 years ago. Typically, bronze is the preferred material for statuary- as it is stronger and more tensile. Bronze casting has a long history in India, and mastery of this technique scaled new heights within the country.
‘Dhokra’ is a metal-casted art form that uses this ancient lost-wax casting technique. This art is said to be the first of its kind to use a non-ferrous metal like copper and its alloys like brass or bronze. It gets its name from a nomadic tribe called ‘Dhokra Damar,’ the main traditional metalsmiths of the states of West Bengal, Odisha and Madhya Pradesh in India, which are metal-rich regions. With its roots in ancient civilizations, Dhokra pieces often depict primitive lifestyles and beliefs, featuring animals like elephants, tortoises, owls, and horses.
Artist and fashion designer Isha Nabar, who has earned a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree ( BFA) in fashion design from the Parsons School of Design, has helped revitalize and breathe new life into this art form by incorporating it into contemporary works of art. Isha, who is currently working at prestigious fashion house ‘Tanya Taylor’ in New York, is a multi-faceted and exceptionally talented designer of Indian origin, internationally renowned for her collections and awards like the AATCC Foundation Jasani Textile Scholarship and UK’s Creative Conscience Award, for which she was a finalist. Her collections ‘Resonance’ and ‘Charkhara’ are groundbreaking and disruptive in their concepts in the realm of sustainability and wellness. Now her rare work in the area of ‘Dhokra art’ and her mission to empower unseen, marginalized local craftsmen in India has garnered widespread recognition and acclaim.
Her creative journey began when she visited the ‘Devrai Art Village’ in the area of Panchgani in India in 2021. The Devrai Art Village was born under the stewardship of the extraordinary philanthropic Mandakini Mathur. It began with three artists from the ‘Naxalite’ (militant groups) affected regions, who found a safe space to work on their ‘Dhokra’ art form under the ficus tree in 2008. The Devrai Art Village is a non-profit initiative that works towards sustaining indigenous art and craft, empowering women and connecting with nature. They make a wide range of products – from pure art pieces to items of utility, infusing art into everyday life. Modern design sensibilities are reflected in traditional arts and crafts, creating quality artifacts that are truly Indian in spirit but universal in appeal.
It is here that the ‘Devrai Rock Dhokra’ was born with a never before seen fusion of metal with stone. Isha sat for hours on end under the Ficus tree, involved wholly and wholeheartedly absorbed in learning the ancient craft.
Isha fully immersed herself into the practice, sharing meaningful dialogue with the skilled craftsmen and gaining insight into their techniques and traditions while also fostering a deeper appreciation and understanding of the cultural significance of this craft. Isha quickly honed the specialized process of Rock Dhokra, a technique that is a highly tedious and painstaking process with intricate steps. Moreover, this approach involves casting natural materials like river rocks under stringent temperatures, which are fragile and could crumble or burst due to high temperatures, making it a game of chance and experiment. The entire process is daunting work for some and exciting for others, understanding that nature ultimately determines the outcome of the final piece.
Working with master craftsmen and the artistic community so closely, Isha was instrumental in further contributing to the development of the Rock Dhokra technique. In particular, Isha has brought new life to the ancient art form, bringing forth an innovative approach that has allowed her to create stunning, one-of-a-kind accessories that celebrate the rich cultural legacy of traditional Dhokra art.
While for some pieces, she cast natural materials such as leaves, bark and fruit directly into metal, she made other handcrafted pieces using hand-picked, one-of-a-kind rocks that she transformed into chic and fashion-forward jewelry pieces. With a thoughtful and deliberate approach, she carefully considered how she played with key motifs of animals, which are the subjects of traditional Dhokra pieces, paying homage to the rich cultural legacy. She worked on an exquisite piece of an extremely detailed bronze parrot, utilizing its form as a handle for a handbag. A tortoise that she created using rock and metal was cleverly crafted into an interesting buckle within a belt. Creating a refined and polished aesthetic that blends the sophistication of couture with the enchanting allure of traditional artistry, Isha creates a truly unique and captivating visual experience with each piece.
Isha’s superlative skills and imaginative flair in incorporating these exquisite pieces into her accessory designs are truly remarkable, imbuing them with historical significance and timeless beauty. In doing so, she adds another layer of value and relevance to these treasures of craftsmanship. Her world-class exposure and creative excellence in fashion are evident as she continues to weave intricate works of art into fashion accessories, recontextualizing Rock Dhokra in a visionary and masterful way. Isha believes it is essential for her community to monetize this ingenious art to sustain both – the art and the artist, give him visibility and help this art form reach the world. She has also been a huge contributor in helping bring awareness to this unique design process and in keeping this art form vibrant and alive.
As she continues to grow her brand and explore new ways of merging her cultural heritage with modern aesthetics, Isha aims to empower artisans, promote sustainable practices, and shed light on the invaluable artistry of traditional techniques like Rock Dhokra. Embodying the transformative nature of the modern artist, Isha is set on revitalizing traditional art for a global audience, creating a lasting legacy for future Indian artists on the international stage.
Follow Isha through her website, https://www.ishanabar.com/
Email: ishanabar22@gmail.com
Instagram- isha_nabar
